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Japanese Punk Shirt 



.1 



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Japanese Punk Shirt 

Written By: Diana Eng 



TOOLS: 



Brush (1) 
Iron (1) 

Ruler (1) 
Scissors (1) 
Sewing machine (1) 
Sponge (1) 
Tape measure (1) 



PARTS: 



Paper (1) 

Pencil (1) 

Taped) 

Thread (1) 

Iron-on T-shirt transfers (1) 
/ suggest Avery brand. 

Acrylic paint (1) 

Corrugated cardboard (1) 
about the size of a shirt. 

Fabric (1) 

Small piece of woven fabric. 

Pins (1) 

Ballpoint needle pins, silk pins if you use 

rayon, silk, or nylon fabrics that may 

run. 



SUMMARY 



Japan is known for its street fashion (popularized in the United States by Fruits magazine 



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Japanese Punk Shirt 

and Gwen Stefani's entourage of Harajuku Girls). Street style is more than just a cute outfit, 
it's a whole look, mentality, and way of acting. Kogals emulate the California Valley Girl, with 
bleached hair, dark tans, light-colored lips, and their own slang. Gothic Lolitas dress like 
Victorian dolls, complete with cute poses. 

Tokyo's Harajuku district is world-famous, where young people dress up and gather by the 
Harajuku station to hang out with friends and hope to be photographed by passersby. 

This shirt is created with some of the same techniques used by Japanese youths to 
personalize their street style. 



Step 1 — Choose a fabric, print out the pattern and assemble the pattern. 




• We are creating a "cut and sew" shirt. Cut and sew means that the garment is made out of 
a knit fabric that can be cut and sewn together (unlike a sweater knit, which if cut will 
unravel). Knit fabrics have different amounts of stretch. We need to use a fabric that has 
at least a 40% stretch. Follow these 2 steps to see if your fabric is right for this project. 

• Fold the cut edge of the fabric. 

• Hold the fabric beside a ruler with 2 fingers at 0" and 2 at 10". Stretch the fabric. If the 
fabric stretches an extra 4" (if it becomes 14" long) then the fabric has a 40% stretch. 
(Don't stretch the fabric too hard. If you do, it won't recover and go back to its original 
size). You'll need 1 1 /2-2 yards of fabric, or 2 T-shirts' worth of material. 

• Print out the 3-page pattern. Then cut out the pattern from each page. 

• Match the "a" line of the top piece to the "A" line of the middle; match the "b" line of the 
middle piece to the "B" line of the bottom piece. Then connect the pages of the pattern 
together with tape. 



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Japanese Punk Shirt 



Step 2 — Size the pattern. 




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Japanese Punk Shirt 



• Measure your arm, bust, waist, and shirt length. Then use the formulas here to calculate 
any size changes. If the width needs to be increased, add to the width beside the fold line. 
If the arm size needs to be increased, cut the pattern at the arm line and add the increase. 
If the length of the shirt needs to be increased, cut the pattern at the length line and add 
the increase. 

# Arm size increase. Measure around your arm at the shoulder. If the measurement is 13 
1/2" or less, then do not increase the arm size and leave as is. If measurement is greater 
than 13" you will need to increase the arm size: divide your measurement by 2, then 
subtract 6 1/2". 

• (arm size measurement/2) -6 1/2 = arm size increase 

• Example: Arm size measurement is 16", (16/2) - 6 1/2" = 1 1/2", Arm size increase = 1 
1/2" 

♦ Width increase. Measure around your bust (at apex) and waist (at high waist, the 
narrowest part). Add measurements together. If measurements are 64" or less, then do not 
increase width and leave as is. If measurement is greater than 64" then divide 
measurements by 8 and subtract 8". 

• [(bust + waist measurement)/ 8] - 8" = width increase 

• Example: Bust measurement is 38", waist measurement is 30", [(38 + 30)/ 8] - 8" = 1/2" 
Waist increase = 1/2" 

• Length increase. Measure the length from your neck base to upper hip. If the length 
measurement is 19" or less, do not increase and leave length size as is. If the length 
measurement is less than (18" + arm size increase), then do not increase and leave the 
length size as is. 

• Example: Length measurement is 19", arm size increase = 3" 19" < (18" + 3") 

• If the length measurement is greater than 19", then subtract (18" + arm size increase) 
from length measurement. If there was no arm size increase, then arm size increase is 
0. 

• Length measurement - (18" + arm size increase) = length increase 

• Example: Length measurement is 21", arm increase is 1 1/2", 21 - (18" + 1 1/2") = 1 
1/2", Length increase = 1 1/2" 



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Japanese Punk Shirt 



Step 3 — Cut out the pattern. 





»»»»•»%»••»»_ 



• Fold the fabric along the grain so that the uncut edges match up. Make your fold as 
straight as possible. 

• Line up the pattern edge marked "fold" with the folded edge of the fabric and lay the pattern 
on the fabric. 

• Optional: Pin an X at the top and bottom of the armhole to mark it (pin on both sides of the 
fabric, not through it). 

• Pin the pattern in place. Then cut out the pattern piece. This is the front. 

• Take a second piece of fabric and repeat Steps 4a-4c for a second pattern piece (the back 
of your shirt). Don't try to cut out both at once. Since the fabric is folded, cutting both 
pieces at the same time will not be accurate. 



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Japanese Punk Shirt 



Step 4 — Sew your shirt. 




• Overlap the side seams of the front and back pieces 1/2" and pin them together (be sure 
not to pin the armhole closed on both sides!). You will be forming a tube out of the 2 pieces 
of fabric. 

• Sew with a 1/4" zigzag stitch (sewing with a zigzag stitch allows knit fabrics to stretch) 
directly in the center of the 1/2" overlap. You can line up the overlap with the sewing foot to 
make sure that the stitch stays in the center. 

• Leave a raw edge at the neck, bottom, and armholes. Finish the shirt with a 1" zigzag 
stitch, 1/4" away from the edge. 



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Japanese Punk Shirt 



Step 5 — Customize your graphics, iron on. 




• Choose one of the T-shirt graphics designed by Thomas Moon from 
http://craftzine.com/03/punk and print it out on an iron-on T-shirt transfer. 

• Note: Use "light T-shirt transfers" for light-colored shirts and "dark T-shirt transfers" for 
dark-colored shirts. (Transfers for dark shirts have a white background.) We suggest 
Avery T-shirt transfers. 

• Cut out the graphic, leaving a bit of extra transfer at the edges of the image. 

• Follow the package instructions to iron the transfer onto the shirt. For a more 
distressed/worn look, iron the image for less than the recommended time; i.e., if the 
recommended ironing time is 3 minutes, try 2 1 /2 minutes. Test this method first to see what 
effect you like. 



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Japanese Punk Shirt 



Step 6 — Customize your graphics, continued, embroidery and screen 
printing. 




• Using your sewing machine, embellish the transfer with freehand stitch lines. Play with the 
zigzag stitch and stitch spacing. Leave loose threads. 

• To add further decoration, stretch the shirt over a piece of corrugated cardboard (stick the 
cardboard inside the shirt). Paint a bit of acrylic paint with a brush, sponge, fingers, etc. 
Make sure to use a thin layer, because screen prints are not usually bumpy or textured. 
Scrape or blot off any excess paint, and let dry. Before washing the shirt, throw it in the 
dryer to set the paint. 

• Note: For the first wash, you may want to wash the shirt separately to make sure the 
colors don't bleed onto other clothing. 



Step 7 — Customize your graphics, continued, label. 






• On a separate piece of woven fabric, iron on a label from http://craftzine.com/03/punk . or 
paint your own label. Leave a fabric edge, or stitch the edge for a patch effect. It's all about 
placement, so attach it to a unique spot. 

• These graphic customization techniques can also be used to personalize your own jeans, 
pants, skirts, button-down shirts, sweaters, jackets, and hoodies. So take a look at your 
wardrobe and see what needs to be modified — Harajuku style. 

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Japanese Punk Shirt 



This project first appeared in CRAFT Volume 03 . pages 82-89. 

This document was last generated on 2012-11-02 11 :25:09 PM. 



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